Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Pattern Drafting weeks 3&4 - Trousers

Waaaaaay back in October I told you about the Patternmaking classes that I was taking. The first class, that I already told you about, was for drafting an 'easy fit' skirt, which if you're paying attention I used the block for to make my crinoline. Well I have FINALLY gotten around to snapping some (fairly poor quality, sorry!) pics of the garment that I made from the 3rd and 4th class; trousers!


In the class we drafted a pair of 'easy fit' trousers - loose trousers with an elasticated waist. The kind of pattern that I would normally use to make pyjama bottoms. As I drafted this block during the spring, I decided to make myself some 'Linen Lounge Trousers' to wear casually in summer. The theory was that they would be like pyjama trousers, but if I needed to I could wear them outside (unlike my pyjama trousers, which are all in garish prints).

I bought some brown linen from Spotlight, and made up the trousers. Sadly I think I have to call these a fail (hence why I'm only getting around to blogging them now). The wide legged look is not really for me, they just don't feel 'right'. There were also some issues with the fabric that I used; it very quickly started pulling apart at the centre front seam, which eventually became a hole (that I have since tried stitching up). I don't think that this is due to my pattern drafting, but due to the fabric itself, as Claire has used the same fabric in a different colour to make a skirt and says she's getting the same on some of her seams.

However, there are some details that I added to them that I wanted to share, which is why I'm bothering to blog them at all...

For the elasticated waist, I added the elastic to the waistband like I normally would, but then did some lines of topstitching over the waistband and elastic as shown below. This stopped the elastic twisting in the waistband, which is one of my minor gripes about my pyjama bottoms.

I also added a pocket, which was a hybrid of a slash and patch pocket; the pocket was the same shape as a slash pocket would have been, but I stitched it onto the outside of the front trouser pieces before assembling the trousers. I think the pockets were the most successful part of these trousers.

So there you have it, the outcome from my 3rd and 4th patternmaking classes. Unfortunately I don't think this block will replace the one I already have for pyjama bottoms, but it was an interesting exercise.

In the last two classes of the original course of 6 we drafted a dartless loose bodice, which I have since converted into a kimono style dressing gown pattern. Eventually I will sew it up, but I haven't just yet, so no post on that yet either :)


  1. I'm doing a pattern making course at the moment with RMIT and it's great fun! I might have to try this course when it's finished. I think the pants look good on you :)

  2. I like the idea of topstitching the waistband. When you do that, you do pull the elastic or have it loose?

    1. I pulled the waistband so that it was the length of the fabric waistband, and the elastic was stretched inside it. I also used quite a long stitch length so it could gather up again ok.

  3. Rach, this is all kinds of amazing :D Pattern drafting guru!

  4. You're brave to draft pants! I just finished my 2nd muslin for a pair of what are supposed to be wide legged pants, but they aren't, they taper in at the bottom and just look awful! I made great strides with my 2nd muslin yesterday but a third is required unfortunately. I wish they would just fit already...


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