I made my decisions on patterns to try back in January, and the ziggi pattern turned out a bit of pain at the muslin stage and so, is in the naughty corner.
Therefore, I subsequently turned to the other pattern that I had selected; the Simplicity 2446 "amazing fit" blazer pattern. However, I have only gotten as far as unfolding the pattern sheets and identifying the pattern pieces before I got confused and put it all away again.
To recap, I chose the 2446 pattern because I liked the idea of it having different bust sizes, meaning I could avoid a FBA and hopefully reducing the number alterations I'd need to make.
Because it's an 'amazing fit' pattern, it has quite a large section in the instructions on selecting your size. The principle is that "there are three unique sets of pattern pieces, each one for the different bust cup sizes". When it says 'three unique sets of pattern pieces' it actually means that there are three versions of the side front piece, all the other pieces of the jacket are the same.
The instructions for determining your size tell you to first find your bust cup size: by comparing the bust and high bust measurements, and determining cup size by subtracting one from the other; a 0.5-1" difference is an A cup, 1-2" a B cup and 2-3" a C cup. With a bust of 37.5" and a high bust of 35", that puts me comfortably in the C cup section.
It then says that the "patterns have all been based on the body measurements given. once you have selected your pattern size, compare your bust measurement to the chart given on the pattern envelope". So, I refer to the size chart...
The size chart refers to "bust" measurement, so based on that and the instructions I interpret it as saying I should select size 14/16 based on my 37.5" bust.. and this is where I got confused. Am I supposed to select my size based on my bust or upper bust measurement?
And this is where I got confused... It seems to me that if I select the size for my bust size and also select the option for cup size C I'm just going to end up with a jacket that's way too big for me all over (rather than too big everywhere except the bust).
Since the only difference between the cup sizes is the added size at the bust in the side front piece, it makes more sense to me to choose my size based on my high bust measurement; the overall bust circumference will be correct for my bust size, and the rest of the jacket will be proportional to my bust:high bust ratio.
However, the pattern doesn't actually say to do that. (I know sometimes I can take things too literally, but I think instructions like this is somewhere I can expect to take things literally).
Am I reading the instructions wrong? Should I select my size based on my high bust measurement? How would you proceed?
Unless I'm thinking it through completely wrong and somebody points it out to me, I think my plan will be to make up size 12 based on my upper bust measurement, along with the C cup side front piece for the same size. I've got some twill to use to make a muslin, as I figured I was better off using something with a little more body than
As an aside, I wonder if you also spotted the (other) glaring error in two of the pictures of the pattern above? The instructions refer to the three side front pieces as 2A, 2 and 2B, but the pattern piece inventory (and on the actual pieces) they are named 2A, 2B and 2C. Great work there Simplicity *rollseyes*
I'm confused now too! What is the design ease like? That may help clarify. I'm guessing make a 14 size with 2C bust? Otherwise prioritise your measurements by the size that conquers the hardest areas to fit (e.g. the shoulders/armhole). Waists are easy to let in or out; hip size/hem you can easily adjust. You might still have a lot of adjustment work to go :( Do you have any fitted princess seamed dresses you could use as a base/reference?
ReplyDeleteHave you thought about trying Lekala patterns? With customised measurements they might be a better base to start from.
Design ease is quite a lot, but I'm not completely sure how much ease i would want in a blazer, i know i would want some positive ease.
DeleteI have heard of lekala patterns but haven't tried any, it is now on my 'to do' list in my head to see if there are any patterns there that I want to try. thanks for the recommendation.
I'm not sure what you're "supposed" to do according to SImplicity, but here's how I handled this pattern: My measurements (36 inch bust) put me at a size 14, but this size is based on body measurements, and my previous experiences with Simplicity patterns indicates quite a lot of ease built in. So, I went one size down and cut a 12. I used the A cup side front piece and got a decent fit, but note that my high bust and full bust measurements are the same, so I'm not sure what would have happened if I had a bigger difference. I'd say go with your high bust measurement and the C cup piece, but also keep in mind the ease built into the pattern. You may want to cut one size down, so maybe a size 10. A muslin will tell you for sure. Good luck! :)
ReplyDeleteThanks for your thoughts! It's good to see they somewhat align with mine.
DeleteOh wow, it never even occurred to me to choose based on my high bust size, but then it usually doesn't because no one has those measurements on the envelope. Someone explained to me once how I'm supposed to use the information on the envelope + my high bust measurement to choose a pattern size, but it made zero sense to me. So when I made this pattern, I just chose the size based on my bust measurement and graded out for the waist and hips, but I did end up with some excess fabric above the bust, so maybe that's not what I should have done. However, it did fit just fine in the actual bust.
ReplyDeleteWhy don't you measure just your front bust measurement from side seam to side seam...record that. measure the paper pattern at that same level...record that. Now measure your back at that same level...record that. Then measure the back pattern at that level and record that. Now you have some idea of what you are dealing with. I do this with all my clients...using one number for circumference tells you nothing about what is needed in the bust/cup area. Lots of women can measure 37...big deal...know what YOU are before cutting and what ease you want/need in a jacket then flare out for the hips in the same way. Circumference at the hips means nothing...where do you need it...tummy or back hips? Make your pattern reflect where YOU need the extra instead of just adding to the side seams which might flare out away from the body and not be very nice.Good luck!
ReplyDeleteI've thought about doing that before, but wasn't sure if it was an accepted technique. I will try this and see what looks like it would be the right size using this method as well as the upper bust measurement and compare.
DeleteAlso knowing your nipple to nipple distance is crucial when making anything with princess seams. Knowing this distance on all patterns makes fitting much better along with distance from shoulder seam to nipple...the bust drop or droop...wear a decent bra that supports and know this number as well for the best fit. As you age this may increase but a good bra can keep the girls up high and more youthful.
DeleteMy clothing production/pattern making teacher would agree with Mrs Mole above. Actually measure the paper pattern and yourself in the same place and figure out exactly which size in what area is for you!! Good luck! X
ReplyDeletehttp://happilycaffeinated.blogspot.com/2015/04/a-guide-to-pattern-cup-sizing.html says - If you're a B cup choosing a B cup pattern, select a pattern by your full bust size. If you're a D cup selecting a pattern by a company that drafts for a D cup (for example, Bluegingerdoll), select your pattern size by your full bust. From there, things get a little more complicated:
ReplyDeleteIf you're a D cup selecting a B cup pattern, choose the pattern size whose bust measurement corresponds to your high bust (not your full bust) measurement. This size should give you a decent fit through the neck and shoulders. Depending on the ease of the pattern, you may need to then do an FBA to increase the bust size of the pattern.
If you're a D cup selecting a pattern that has separate cup size options, such Vogue's Custom Fit patterns, determine what your pattern size would be if only the B cup option was available. In other words, choose your normal Vogue Patterns starting size (typically, going by your high bust measurement), but then select the D cup pattern piece for that size.
thanks for the info!
DeleteYou need to measure both your high bust and your bust. The difference determines your cup size.
ReplyDeleteI'm making Simplicity 1653 - also an amazing fit pattern. I was wondering the same as you re sizing. After reading the measuring instructions several million times (I exaggerate a little... why can't they make the print size bigger?) I found what I was looking for - "If your bust and high bust measurement have more than a 2.5" (6.3cm) difference, choose your pattern size by your high bust measurement and then you are able to customize your fit using the separate bust cup pattern piece." At 35" high bust you're halfway between a 12 and 14, depending on the amount of ease in the pattern and how big your like your jackets through the shoulder and neckline I guess you could probably make either size.
ReplyDelete