Despite the fit problems with the blouse, I love the look with the black gingham and really want to get it to work for me, I can see it being a wardrobe staple if I work out the fit problems.
So, in no particular order, the fit problems I've so far identified...
There is a funny poofy thing happening on the back of the sleeve - it's almost as if it's the wrong shape, you can see below. The sleeve sticks out at the back, but behind where you can see it goes smooth-ish against my back. The extra fabric could probably be pinched out.
The sleeves are HUGE! They're a good two inches too large in circumference at least, and probably about 1/2" too long - they hit in the middle of my elbow at the moment, not above it.
The sleeves aren't just too wide down the arm, but the arm hole is way too big, going down too far, meaning the blouse pulls funny when I move my arms:
Also there's a weird wrinkle thing on the centre front over the bust that appears almost instantly, even if you smooth it down. I don't know if i stretched the bias as i sewed it? As it's not caused by lack of ease as there's a fair bit of ease in the blouse on me, and it also happened when Claire tried it on, who is a few inches smaller than me in the bust, although the wrinkles were less pronounced on her.
Lastly the neckline is just too wide for my shoulders - you can see in the above photo that even standing straight it starts to fall off my shoulder and show my bra strap when I'm standing straight, and in the below photo you can see that it starts to gape even more when I'm not standing/sitting straight.
All these issues (bar the bust wrinkles) may be due to the blouse being too big for my frame. (I cut a size 8 above the waist, based on my full bust measurement) So I was thinking that my next plan of attack should be to try making a smaller size and then making a full bust adjustment to the pattern to bring the bust measurement back up to the bust size of the 8. What do you think?
Also, if I try that, how many sizes down should I go? My full bust is about 37" and my "upper bust" 34". That would put my upper bust as a size 2, which is a lot of size differences from the size 8 (especially since the hips need to be a size 10)... Advice? Opinions?
Anyway, other than it not being the right shape for me, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this version of the blouse. I am really happy with the construction and it's finished except for the hem. So, is anybody interested in having it? It seems a shame if it were to just be thrown away. It's a 37" bust, so if you're interested in it please leave me a comment (make sure your email address is included) or send me an email.
Lastly, I didn't do the facing around the neckline, I did a bias bound finish instead. I took step by step photos of it, so if you're interested in how I did it there will be a tutorial on it coming in the next few days. Here's a sneak peek of what the inside of the neckline looks like:
I had always been informed to select the size from you upper bust. Generally selecting from you upper bust means a better fit through the shoulders and neck area. Patterns are generally made for a B cup bust, so after selecting from the upper bust then make a full bust adjustment. Here is a good place to read: http://sewmamasew.com/blog2/2008/05/full-bust-alterations-or-adjustments-fba/
ReplyDeleteThere is plenty of information on this through the web. I would check those arms though even on the smaller size & the neckline, so patterns just have to be adjusted. Good Luck!
I think Colette patterns are made to fit a C bust measurement. Why don't you email Sarai or Caitlin with your problem and attach some pictures. They seem like they would help out judging from their blog. On a side note, I have this pattern and am waiting to see how yours works out before I start. I bought some really nice silk georgette/chiffon(?)and want to use it for a Jasmine. Thanks for working through all my problems first!
ReplyDeleteDespite all your fitting issues I am in love with the black and white gingham, it looks fabulous on you and I am sure when you are finished tweaking you're going to get so many compliments when you wear it :)
ReplyDeleteIt looks great despite the misgivinging about fit. the issues are minor and can be fixed next time. As for me, I think I'm moving my version up a place in the queue.
ReplyDeleteHi Rachel! This is weird, almost like looking at my own muslin for the Jasmine blouse. The wrinkles at center front, the huge sleeves and that poofy thing at the back of the sleeves, it's all there. Did you manage to win this fitting battle? I can't see a remake anywhere?
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