Friday, January 25, 2013

Hollyburn Sew-Along - Waistband

Welcome to the next post in the Hollyburn Skirt Sew-along! Incase you've missed any, here are all the posts so far:
Inspiration (Part 1)
Inspiration (Part 2)
Choosing a view
Choosing and Buying Fabric
Changing the Length
An Interview with Tasia
Pattern Alteration - Removing the Pockets
Pattern Alteration - Piping on your waistband
Prewash and Prepare Fabric
Thoughts on Grading Up in Size
Choices to make before starting to sew

Today's post is a shorter one compared to the last few; we're going to attach the waistband to the skirt. This is the point where the lined and un-lined instructions separate, so make sure you follow the right ones (I'll indicate in the headings)

Stay-stitch the waistline - both lined and unlined versions
Before attaching the waistband we should stay-stitch the waistline. This will stop the skirt from stretching out, particularly as you're attaching the waistband. 

Stay stitching is just sewing a line of stitching, inside the seam allowance, along the edge you don't want to stretch. Incase you distort the fabric at all while sewing this line of stitching, Tasia suggests stitching from centre back (end) to the centre front (middle) from each side about 1/2" from the raw edge:

Prepare the waistband - unlined version
If you're not lining your version, you need to fold over the raw edge of the inside edge of the waistband, and Tasia suggests doing this before sewing it to your skirt, I suspect because it's less cumbersome to do than when the skirt is attached!

I'm really sorry, but I forgot to take a photo of this step! But what you need to do is fold up the edge with less notches 1.5cm (5/8"), and press it nice and crisply. Once you've done that, trim the seam allowance.

If you're lining your skirt, DO NOT DO THIS STEP!

Prepare the waistband - lined version
The only preparation I recommend for the waistband for the lined version is to make sure that the centre front and side seam notches are marked on both sides of the waistband, this will help when sewing in the lining.

Attach waistband to skirt - both lined and unlined versions
Now, take your skirt pieces and waistband and place them right sides together. Start by lining up the centre front seam and the notch marking the centre front of the waistband and pin in place.

Next pin the waistband to the skirt at the side seams and side seam notches, and at the ends of the waistband and skirt. Now add as many pins as you think you'll need between those 5.

Now stitch along the waistband seam. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam, and remove the pins before you stitch over them.

Just to finish up for the day, trim the seam allowances and press them towards the waistband. I recommend spending some time on this step, as having a nice crisp seam here will assist with the steps further on.

I hope everyone has a great weekend!

Missed any of the sew-along posts, or just want to re-read them? You can find the full list here.


  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

  2. step 10 states that if the skirt piece has stretched and is too big fo the waistband that you should easestitch and distribute fullness. Did you do this? Is this necessary because I see that your waistband kinda looks like it is not the same length as the waistband.

    1. I didn't find it necessary on my fabric, as it hadn't stretched at all. The skirt did fit into the waistband just right. However, if your skirt is slightly bigger than the waistband then you should ease it in like Tasia suggests.

  3. Tonight is the night to get moving on this - look for my post soon (hopefully)


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