Amazing Fit Blazer - Some confusion

My quest to make a couple of jackets this year has certainly slowed down. There hasn't been any update on this goal as progress has somewhat stalled.

I made my decisions on patterns to try back in January, and the ziggi pattern turned out a bit of  pain at the muslin stage and so, is in the naughty corner.

Therefore, I subsequently turned to the other pattern that I had selected; the Simplicity 2446 "amazing fit" blazer pattern. However, I have only gotten as far as unfolding the pattern sheets and identifying the pattern pieces before I got confused and put it all away again.

To recap, I chose the 2446 pattern because I liked the idea of it having different bust sizes, meaning I could avoid a FBA and hopefully reducing the number alterations I'd need to make.

Because it's an 'amazing fit' pattern, it has quite a large section in the instructions on selecting your size. The principle is that "there are three unique sets of pattern pieces, each one for the different bust cup sizes". When it says 'three unique sets of pattern pieces' it actually means that there are three versions of the side front piece, all the other pieces of the jacket are the same.

The instructions for determining your size tell you to first find your bust cup size: by comparing the bust and high bust measurements, and determining cup size by subtracting one from the other; a 0.5-1" difference is an A cup, 1-2" a B cup and 2-3" a C cup. With a bust of 37.5" and a high bust of 35", that puts me comfortably in the C cup section.

It then says that the "patterns have all been based on the body measurements given. once you have selected your pattern size, compare your bust measurement to the chart given on the pattern envelope". So, I refer to the size chart...

 

The size chart refers to "bust" measurement, so based on that and the instructions I interpret it as saying I should select size 14/16 based on my 37.5" bust.. and this is where I got confused. Am I supposed to select my size based on my bust or upper bust measurement?

And this is where I got confused... It seems to me that if I select the size for my bust size and also select the option for cup size C I'm just going to end up with a jacket that's way too big for me all over (rather than too big everywhere except the bust).

Since the only difference between the cup sizes is the added size at the bust in the side front piece, it makes more sense to me to choose my size based on my high bust measurement; the overall bust circumference will be correct for my bust size, and the rest of the jacket will be proportional to my bust:high bust ratio.

However, the pattern doesn't actually say to do that. (I know sometimes I can take things too literally, but I think instructions like this is somewhere I can expect to take things literally).

Am I reading the instructions wrong? Should I select my size based on my high bust measurement? How would you proceed?

Unless I'm thinking it through completely wrong and somebody points it out to me, I think my plan will be to make up size 12 based on my upper bust measurement, along with the C cup side front piece for the same size. I've got some twill to use to make a muslin, as I figured I was better off using something with a little more body than


As an aside, I wonder if you also spotted the (other) glaring error in two of the pictures of the pattern above? The instructions refer to the three side front pieces as 2A, 2 and 2B, but the pattern piece inventory (and on the actual pieces) they are named 2A, 2B and 2C. Great work there Simplicity *rollseyes*

Jacket Pattern Decisions

An enormous thank you to everyone that suggested jacket patterns after I asked for suggestions the other day. In case anybody else was interested I thought that I would share the options that I've collated, and infact, writing out this post has helped me make my decisions.


The Blazer

Three main patterns came out as suggestions for the blazer; McCalls 6172, Simplicity 2446 and Vogue 8333.

 

M6172 was suggested by Gail, who has made an inspiring version of this pattern recently. This pattern certainly ticks all the basic boxes, but I think I'd prefer something a little more curvy

V8333, is a Claire Shaeffer Custom Couture Collection pattern, and apparently has instructions for both RTW and couture construction techniques. I really like the sound of the instructions of this pattern, I think I want welt pockets as opposed to the in seam pockets in this jacket, and also think I prefer 2 buttons over 3.

 

And the pattern I think I'm going to use is the S2446. It is one of the amazing fit patterns that has different pieces for different cup sizes, which I have heard good things about and will hopefully make it easier to fit. It has two buttons and lovely angled welt pockets. Unless I discover another pattern, I think S2446 is my girl. (So if anybody hears about an Australian sale on simplicity patterns please let me know)


The Biker Style

For the second jacket, with regards to recommendations one pattern was mentioned over and over and over; the Style Arc Ziggi. However, the price tag of the Ziggi has made me do a bit of searching to see if there were any other options around, which found me the Kwiksew 3764 and the Burdastyle Larissa.

The KwikSew 3764 has the colar and zip style that I'm after, but I'm not sure if it's the styling on the envelope or how the pattern really is, but it looks really boxy. I think a jacket as boxy as that would be pretty unflattering on me.

 

Similarly, the Burdastyle Larissa is also fairly boxy, and also pretty cropped, I am planning to make an upper hip length jacket so it can be worn with jeans etc as well as waisted garments.

And so that brings me back to the Style Arc Ziggi. There was obviously a reason that most people suggested it. The princess seams in the pattern will add shape (or provide the opportunity to at least), and it looks like it's already upper hip length. I've been informed that the instructions leave quite a bit to be desired, but there is a sew along out there for the jacket which should help with the construction. I guess I'll be digging deep into my pockets and going with this pattern.

Jacket plans - can you help?

I would like to make at least one jacket this year. I have two pieces of fabric I want to use, and a vague idea of what the jackets will look like, but not much more than that yet.

It might seem a little early to be thinking about jackets (particularly given that it got up to 37C in Melbourne today), but the fabric I have isn't that thick so I figure these would both make great autumn jackets and I want to be able to take my time.

One of the jackets I want to make is a normal blazer style and I have some dark green wool for it:



The second jacket I want to make I have some aubergine coloured wool for, and am envisioning a biker style jacket with an asymmetrical zip:



However, I don't have any patterns lined up for either of these jackets, so I thought I would put it out there; do you have any recommendations for patterns for either of these styles?