Pattern Drafting weeks 3&4 - Trousers

Waaaaaay back in October I told you about the Patternmaking classes that I was taking. The first class, that I already told you about, was for drafting an 'easy fit' skirt, which if you're paying attention I used the block for to make my crinoline. Well I have FINALLY gotten around to snapping some (fairly poor quality, sorry!) pics of the garment that I made from the 3rd and 4th class; trousers!

 

In the class we drafted a pair of 'easy fit' trousers - loose trousers with an elasticated waist. The kind of pattern that I would normally use to make pyjama bottoms. As I drafted this block during the spring, I decided to make myself some 'Linen Lounge Trousers' to wear casually in summer. The theory was that they would be like pyjama trousers, but if I needed to I could wear them outside (unlike my pyjama trousers, which are all in garish prints).

I bought some brown linen from Spotlight, and made up the trousers. Sadly I think I have to call these a fail (hence why I'm only getting around to blogging them now). The wide legged look is not really for me, they just don't feel 'right'. There were also some issues with the fabric that I used; it very quickly started pulling apart at the centre front seam, which eventually became a hole (that I have since tried stitching up). I don't think that this is due to my pattern drafting, but due to the fabric itself, as Claire has used the same fabric in a different colour to make a skirt and says she's getting the same on some of her seams.

However, there are some details that I added to them that I wanted to share, which is why I'm bothering to blog them at all...

For the elasticated waist, I added the elastic to the waistband like I normally would, but then did some lines of topstitching over the waistband and elastic as shown below. This stopped the elastic twisting in the waistband, which is one of my minor gripes about my pyjama bottoms.

I also added a pocket, which was a hybrid of a slash and patch pocket; the pocket was the same shape as a slash pocket would have been, but I stitched it onto the outside of the front trouser pieces before assembling the trousers. I think the pockets were the most successful part of these trousers.

So there you have it, the outcome from my 3rd and 4th patternmaking classes. Unfortunately I don't think this block will replace the one I already have for pyjama bottoms, but it was an interesting exercise.

In the last two classes of the original course of 6 we drafted a dartless loose bodice, which I have since converted into a kimono style dressing gown pattern. Eventually I will sew it up, but I haven't just yet, so no post on that yet either :)

Thurlow Trousers

I showed you my Thurlow Shorts the other week and at the time promised to show you the trousers that I made from the pattern.

The trousers I made are out of this lovely black and grey weave fabric, that appears grey unless you look closely. The fabric (also from the fabric store) is a bit thinner than the stuff I used for the shorts, and has a slight amount of stretch. I forget what the fibre content was.

Although I still absolutely love the pattern, I definitely love the shorts waaaaay more than these trousers for two main reasons. Firstly, I'm not that fond of trousers these days, so they've got an uphill battle from the start. Secondly, because of the slight stretch in the fabric these trousers have ended up slightly bigger than the shorts, making them borderline too big.

They are, however, a huge success over the last pair of trousers that I made - for starters I didn't royally mess up the zip, and secondly they aren't super shiney.

Having said all that, I'm not sure how much wear they'll get, so if anybody local is slightly larger than me and wants to try them and see if they fit, I'd be happy to donate them to them. Let me know!

I do like the fabric though, and have enough left to make another pair of shorts, which I think I'll make in the size smaller to try and compensate for the fabric stretch.

Trousers!

You've seen the muslin, but here are the finished thing:

They're not as shiny as they seem in the photos in real life, the flash did something funky!

I wore them to work on Tuesday, but will confess I took a spare pair in my bag in case of a wardrobe malfunction, but they weren't needed. I ended up hemming them to be worn with flats, as I figured they'll get worn more that way, but the front of the trousers doesn't quite sit right because it rests on my foot...

The thing about them that I'm most proud is actually the inside. I did french seams on the pockets, bias binding around the fly and invisibly stitched the waistband lining down. I'd love to show you, but I can't seem to be able to take a photo of it in focus.

Trouser Muslin (at last)

My trouser muslin has been finished for over a week now, but to start with I didn't have anyone to take photos for me, and then after I got some photos at sewing club last week I've been ridiculously busy so haven't had the chance to post them until now. Without any more wait, here's my muslin:

Front:

Side:

Back:

Not the most flattering when made up in calico, but I'm still pretty proud of my first try! I'm sure that there are heaps more alterations I could do to make the fit better, but this will do for now and I'll investigate them for a second pair.

After scouring the shelves at tessuti in a very picky fashion I just couldn't find the right shade of grey... so I looked in the fabric store and clegs and finally spotlight where I found some. Here's my fabric, it's a gorgeous mid grey and this close-up photo shows the slight pattern it has:

Oh, and Melbourne people, don't forget that it's the Clegs Easter sale this weekend (Sat, Mon & Tues), where it's 20% off everything and most of all $5 patterns!

My first pair of trousers!

Yesterday I made up a muslin for the Vogue V2907 Pattern that is part of my Wardrobe Project. I'm very proud of myself; they're the first pair of trousers that I've ever made! (Pyjama bottoms don't count!) I did the fly front with a random zip I found, and included the front pockets, but didn't bother with the welt pockets on the back (I'm not sure that I'm going to include them at all).

I've altered the back trouser pieces and back yoke so that the trousers fit my rather large sticky-outey bum, and have cut those pieces out again. I was hoping to be able to show you the finished muslin this evening but i have learnt a vital lesson today - increase your stitch length on muslins!!! I didn't and because of that it's taking me FOREVER to unpick the seams of the trousers so I can resew them with the new backs.

Hopefully i'll be able to finish the muslin tomorrow evening.