Monday, April 15, 2013

SewCieTea Dress - The Real Thing, In Liberty


You've seen the first practice dress, and the second practice dress, and finally I am showing you the real thing, made of the precious Liberty fabric given to me by my Gran.


To quickly recap the details of this dress, I wanted to make a 50s style full skirted dress, with a fitted bodice and a wide scooped neckline. Rather than spend ages hunting for the perfect pattern and then even longer adjusting it to fit, I chose to use my self-drafted bodice (used here and here) and change the neckline and armholes to suit my vision.


To make the neckline I adopted a really scientific approach; I put on my peacock dress and measured down about how much lower I wanted the front neckline, how much higher the back neckline needed to be, and where I wanted it to fall on my shoulders (mostly dictated by where my bra straps sit) and drew it on to a copy of the pattern, using my french curve to help smooth the curves. I then also extended out the shoulder seams slightly to give the impression of slight cap sleeves.

 

I fluked out with the neckline, and really liked how it turned out on the first practice dress. After some input from friends confirming some ideas that I'd had, I decided to try adding a contrast band around the neckline and at the waistline. The band at the neck is 1.5" wide, and the waistband is 1.25" (based on the waistband of the Cambie.


I also added a pocket into the RH side seam in the second version, using the pocket piece for the full-skirted Cambie. In all versions the skirt is just a circle skirt (I used the pattern piece from vogue 2902 rather than draft one).

 

I didn't make any changes after the second practice version, and took my time on the construction of this dress. The inside is almost as beautiful as the outside.


The bodice is underlined with some cream cotton batiste.


I finished the armholes with bias binding (hand stitched to the underlining so it's invisible from the outside) and did french seams on the shoulder seams..


For most of the seam allowances I turned them under and stitched them to give a lovely clean finish.


The waistband was finished with a second waistband piece on the inside, that was machine stitched onto the waist seam allowances at the top, and slip stitched along the bottom.


You can just see it above, the only seam that didn't have all of the raw edges enclosed was the pocket, where I just zig-zagged.


The side zip is a hand picked lapped zip...


I even changed thread colour for the 1.25" of the waistband!


I really do love how a hand-picked zip looks.


The contrast band on the neckline was sewn on like a facing, but on the outside. I will be sharing a post later this week (hopefully) with details of how I constructed the bodice with this contrast detail.



I am incredibly proud of the top-stitching; I love my top-stitching foot!


The skirt wasn't lined, as I wore it with my new Crinoline! (post to follow)


I'm still not completely sure about the crinoline. I've never worn one before (except for a few photos), and I was incredibly aware that I was wearing it all afternoon.


At the time it felt a tad conspicuous and costume-y, but looking at the photos I really love the silhouette of the dress with the crinoline underneath it.


So the jury is still out as to whether it will be worn with or without the crinoline for the wedding I'm planning on wearing it to in the UK in July.


However, I am madly in love with the dress, I really do think (and hope) I've done The Liberty and my Gran proud.

47 comments:

  1. I think you definitely did do them both proud! And this has got to be proof that practicing before hand gives you such a good result!
    I know exactly what you're saying with regards to the crinoline - I felt the same. But it honestly really makes the silhouette, I think. You should definitely wear it with the dress to the wedding :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. It look absolutely stunning. I think the colour really suits you. The silhouette with the crinoline is breathtaking. Well done :-)

    ReplyDelete
  3. Rachel, you look fabulous. And the crinoline gets another vote from me!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Wow! AH-MAZING photos, you look stunning xx

    I love how you tweaked the shoulder to give a slight cap to the sleeve, a nice balancing touch. All the detailing is flawless, well done on a beautiful dress inside and out! I think the crinoline looks fab with it, I know what you mean about it "feeling" conspicuous but it really adds to the silhouette and I think you should wear it with rather than without. If you can't go full out crinoline to a wedding when can you? :) +1 for me on Team Crinoline!

    Great photos too

    ReplyDelete
  5. What a beautiful dress! Love the photos too. You definitely did the fabric and your Gran proud. The inside details alone are wonderful and inspiring! I just bought my first Liberty print and I have plans to turn it into a Colette Sencha. Great work! -Amanda

    ReplyDelete
  6. Oh my!!!
    I'm in love with your dress, the fabric, the print, the fit... and the fact that you drafted it yourself tops it all of!!
    Well done!
    I'd be interested to see a post on how you hand picked a lapped zip... I've never done a lapped zip before :) I love a handpicked zip.
    GREAT DRESSSSSS!

    ReplyDelete
  7. It's gorgeous! You're gorgeous! And, I have to admit that though I don't think of myself as a poofy dress girl, I love the body the crinoline gives your dress. Bravo on a great finished garment!!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Your dress is beautiful and you look absolutely gorgeous in it. I think you've definitely done your Gran proud.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Really beautiful job. The fabric is just lovely and your dress is perfect and really suits you.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Your dress looks gorgeous. Well done. Your thoughts on the crinoline are interesting. It definitely gives a nice silhouette to the dress!

    ReplyDelete
  11. You look beautiful, I think this is my favourite dress that you've ever sewn! I love the fabric, it's so gorgeous. You've really done your Gran proud. I'd love to see more of the construction process or any tutorials....

    ReplyDelete
  12. What a beautiful dress, and beautifullly made! It's my favourite of all the ones I've seen on the blogs!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Wow congratulations this looks impeccable! You should be really proud :-)

    ReplyDelete
  14. Lovely fabric! What a great fit! Excellent job! You look amazing in this dress!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Oh, this is supremely beautiful! Well done!

    ReplyDelete
  16. It is amazing! You should be proud of it. The fit is amazing and the pattern to fabric match is perfect. The blue really suits you. Well done.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Gorgeous! What lovely fabric, and the contrast neckline looks lovely. And I don't think it looks costume-y at all, the crinoline makes it extra special :)

    ReplyDelete
  18. Oh my what a beautiful dress! I was wondering how you got such a lovely fullness to the skirt before you revealed your crinoline - it's so sad that people dress so casual these days that wearing a nice dress with a crinoline makes you feel conspicuous

    ReplyDelete
  19. This is so beautiful, Rachel! You really did a fabulous job.

    I know what you mean about crinolines - I have one skirt that has a built-in one, and I always feel so conspicuous when I wear it, but I always get tons of compliments too! This dress is so perfect with the crinoline underneath, and I don't think it looks costumey at all!

    ReplyDelete
  20. You look fantastic! Such a beautiful dress!

    ReplyDelete
  21. I'm so sure that your Gran and Liberty would be so proud of you! Your dress is simply stunning and I love it with the crinolines underneath. Congratulations on modifying your pattern to fit you perfectly and your stitching looks great :)

    ReplyDelete
  22. wow - that is beautiful! i love the crinioline too. i know exactly what you mean about feeling costumey but it doesn't look it since you can't see it at the hem. definitely wear them both to the wedding!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Rachel your dress is beautiful & fits you like a glove - great work :)!

    ReplyDelete
  24. Really beautiful and so flattering to wear! Doesn't it feel like such an accomplishment when the inside of a garment looks just as good as the outside? It looks really well sewn.

    ReplyDelete
  25. I had no idea a topstitching foot existed! I will have to look into that because my topstitching is tragic. Your dress turned out so, so GOOD! I love your whole outfit. It's perfect.

    ReplyDelete
  26. This is breathtaking, you've totally outdone yourself and you and the dress look stunning! Like Amy above, I wasn't aware of a top stitching foot...I need one now!!!

    ReplyDelete
  27. Your dress is absolutely beautiful! I love the fabric. I say go with the crinoline, the skirt sits really well with it, and it's definately not too much.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Gorgeous! Absolutely gorgeous! You definitely did right by this fabric. I've been considering trying a handpicked zipper, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Was it very time consuming? Do you feel it's as strong as a machine stitched zip?

    ReplyDelete
  29. There is no doubt your gran would be proud of that dress. It is a stunner! Amazing work. I love it with the crinoline too. However I love to wear a crinoline at any chance I get.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Beautiful!!! love the fit and all the details! if the netting of the crinoline is next to your skin and bothering you, i'd just wear a slip and then the crinoline on top. be sure to do some twirling on the dance floor at the wedding ;)

    ReplyDelete
  31. Abso-tute-ly fantabulous! I swoon!

    ReplyDelete
  32. Your dress looks fabulous!! I'm in awe of your stitching and finishing and general sewing abilities. You'll out do the bride in July! (I've popped over via Lara for a look-see)

    ReplyDelete
  33. My absolute favourite! What a special dress--it's AMAZING xx

    ReplyDelete
  34. These are the types of dress's my mom wore when I was growing up. At least when I was very young. You did a great job. The fabric hand looks lovely, I'll bet it feels wonderful. My only question is, are you wearing a slip of some sort between you and the crinoline? Because I do remember wearing dresses that had crinolines and they were very itchy!
    Jean C.
    djcogdill@q.com

    ReplyDelete
  35. This is so so pretty. That fabric is just gorgeous and the details are beautiful, I love that blue neck line.

    ReplyDelete
  36. As you know :) I think this dress is fabulous and is defintely not over the top with the crinoline. I think the crinoline balances the shape perfectly. Stunning!!

    ReplyDelete
  37. What an absolutely beautiful dress! All the practice and attention to detail certainly paid off. I think it's safe to say you've done your Gran and that gorgeous fabric very proud. Really, this is one of my favorites of all the blogged dresses I've ever seen.

    ReplyDelete
  38. What a triumph! I appreciate the pics of the inside details...I reckon they are the best bit of a home made dress...so beautiful and well finished. It is a dress to treasure.

    ReplyDelete
  39. It really looks lovely, congratulations!

    ReplyDelete
  40. Three times luckier! The 'real thing' complete with Liberty print is fabulous.

    ReplyDelete
  41. Wow what an amazing dress. I think this might be my favourite of the dresses from Sewcietea. I love a classic fitted bodice and full skirt. Fantastic job, clever you!

    ReplyDelete

  42. This is simply stunning. What an amazing fit and finish. So awesome!

    ReplyDelete
  43. The silhouette is stunning. You must wear the crinoline!

    ReplyDelete
  44. This is simply beyond beautiful! Any tips on doing a lapped zip, I have never tried one before. xxx

    ReplyDelete
  45. Wow, that is one of the most stunning dresses I have ever seen! I might have to create a similar dress to quash my green eyed monster! xxx

    ReplyDelete
  46. This dress is gorgeous! I love everything about it. That topstitching is absolutely impeccable. Just beautiful! You did such an amazing job!

    ReplyDelete
  47. Just surfing around for dress inspiration, I am currently working on a Simplicity 3965, and I just happend to stumble by your blog. Looked through your project and I can not resist from saying that this dress fits you amazingly, it is so nice! I really love the contrasting color in the neckline,I will add that as a future project on some of my dresses. Wish you a nice day and send you a big thanks for the inspiration :)

    ReplyDelete

Comments make me smile :)

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...