Thursday, December 27, 2012

Cordova Muslin

I popped round to see Sarah last Sunday and accidentally came home with a copy of the Sewaholic Cordova Jacket Pattern. I've been thinking about making one to wear at work for a while, so decided to bite the bullet and at least make a muslin to see the shape of the jacket on me, without the extra peplum.

So this afternoon I traced off the pattern (in a size 10) and stitched up a muslin. I really like the pattern so far, but I think it needs a few tweaks to perfect it for me. However, I really need some opinions/advice as to what you guys think I should do. (Apologies for the harsh light and slightly fuzzy pictures - I'm still trying to get the hang of self-portraits!)

 

Looking both in the mirror and at the photos, most of the fit issues are in the back of the jacket. However, I do think I need to narrow the shoulders slightly, the seam sits at the end of my shoulders rather than at the end of the bone, so the top of the sleeve is completely empty! If I want to do that do I just take it off the armhole?

There's also a tiny bit of pulling under the bust, but i'm not sure if it's enough to worry about or not? (I'm questioning it as I have no idea how I'd do a comparable alteration to the lining as it has different seamlines!)

 

It's the back where it's a mess - my lovely protruding behind and sway back pushes the jacket up and causes lots of wrinkles. Above you can see how it sits with just a minor amount of movement before the photo, and below left I deliberately lifted my arms above my head and didn't pull it down again at the back after at all.

I can't decide if i need to do a sway back adjustment, add some extra width around the hips (somewhere?) or shorten above the peplum. The seam of the peplum falls slightly below where I really start to widen out, but I don't know where it would be most flattering to fall. I think if i shortened above the peplum I'd get rid of a fair bit of the creasing and blousing in the back because it would have more ease to drop back down where it's supposed to be sitting, rather than getting stuck above my hips. Adding some more ease in somewhere below the hip could also possibly help with that? What do you think? What would you do?

(Obviously once I've fixed the back wrinkles I'll have to assess the length so it doesn't swing up in the back like it is at the moment)

I've also spotted diagonal lines running from my shoulder-blades to my armpits on the back - would I fix that by adding a smidge to the back side seam? (more obvious in the above photos than below ones)

 

Also, how long are sleeves supposed to be?

And lastly, not a fitting issue but a problem I had - when sewing it together the back pieces are supposed to be longer than the peplum but mine weren't - they were the same, and then the peplum was longer than the front piece. I double and triple checked, that was the only way around the peplum would go in, as the double notches went at the back/side-back seam where there was an extra notch... Help?!


In conclusion - I desperately need a good book on fitting, so in addition to any fitting advice, any fitting book recommendations gratefully received.

14 comments:

  1. My Cordova pattern arrived today from Sarah!! I've got all the supplies ready. I wasn't going to do a toile but maybe I should. Sorry can't help much with the fitting but I do think that a swayback adjustment might help. Try pinning out the swayback tuck and see how that helps. I have "Tailoring" by Creative Publishing which is very good for jackets. Good luck!

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    1. Thanks, I'll give the sway back thing a go next time I can persuade someone to help me. Thanks for the tip on the book too

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  2. I'm liking the look of this one! I would suggest a swayback alteration to start with and perhaps narrowing the shoulders a little. Length wise I like my jacket sleeves to end (when my hands are down by my side) in line with the first joint on my thumb (halfway down the back of my hand) but that is just me. Good luck with your fitting issues!

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    1. Sounds like you an Mel suggest the same thing with sleeve length, I'll try it! I've tried narrowing the shoulders by 2cm and it looks much better

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    2. Yes, I think you need a sway back...

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  3. From what my teacher taught me - the cuff of the sleeve should sit just where the skin creases between your thumb and forefinger when you've got your arms relaxed at your side. I've stuck with this and have always been very happy with the sleeve length.
    Fitting at the back really sucks though - you need a fitting buddy!
    I think you did the absolute right thing on narrowing the shoulders though (this comment from seeing the pic on twitter) - it looked heaps better on the adjusted side!

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    1. thanks for the sleeve length tip. I definitely need a fitting buddy for the back, I think this one is on hold until I grab one!

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  4. I think it needs a sway back and a full bust adjustment. I always recommend the Palmer and Pleitch fitting books (dont be put off by the hidden photographs) and I have a vintage fitting book that I found on ebay. I'll look up the title and send you an email.

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  5. Hi, I'm up to making my cordova. Did you find the answer or solution to the peplum issues? I'm having the same problem. The back panel is not longer and the front peplum is longer. Help?! Thanks

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    1. No didn't find a proper answer or solution' I ended up lengthening the front piece to fit the peplum, and added an extra piece to the back because I forgot to add length there too.

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  6. Thanks Rachel. I think I'm going to add a facing to the back. Not sure what I'll do to the front. Maybe chop it off!

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  7. I wish now I'd chopped some off on the front, it's good for standing but that bit too long to be comfortable when sitting, I usually end up folding the cf under when sitting in it zipped up. Have learnt why suit jackets are good coz they button up.

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